One Beacon Bartender's Women's History Behind The Margarita Cocktail

by Emily Morales
Emily Morales is the front of house manager at
Meyer's Olde Dutch and has worked in multiple other bars and restaurants on Beacon’s Main Street. She grew up in Beacon and is now also raising her daughter here. When she's not working, she's usually reading anything she can get her hands on.

When I say “Margarita,” what do you think about?

A classic blend of tequila, lime, and orange liqueur. Maybe salt, maybe on the rocks, everyone has their own preference. But who created it?

As a woman who grew from barback, to bartender, and now to front of house manager at Meyer’s Olde Dutch, I wanted to create a menu centered on women’s contributions to the cocktail world for Women’s History Month. I quickly realized, however, that there are very few cocktails more well-known than the one named after a woman, Margarita.

I put together three recipes based on Margarita lore, but nothing beats our house recipe at Meyers Olde Dutch. Served over one large ice cube and half a salt rim, it’s a serious crowd-pleaser!

Origin Stories Of The Margarita

Most, if not all, cocktails have one person we can point to and thank for their genius and dedication to the craft. Take the Hanky Panky, for example. It was created by head bartender Ada Coleman at the Savoy Hotel’s American Bar in 1903 and features gin, sweet red vermouth, and a splash of Fernet Branca. This drink happens to predate any Margarita recipe by over 20 years.

The Margarita, however, has over a dozen origin stories. Many people claim the world-famous classic as their own intellectual property, whether by accident, on purpose, or something in between. In honor of Women’s History Month, Meyer’s Olde Dutch is selling Margaritas inspired by three of these claims centered around women: Marjorie King, Margaret Sames, and Doña Bertha (and the Hanky Panky for gin drinkers).

Marjorie King’s Margarita

In the 1930’s, actress Marjorie King often stopped at a bar called Rancho la Gloria with her friends and fellow socialites, but was unable to drink. According to legend, she was allergic to all alcohol except tequila but hated the taste, so bar owner Carlos “Danny” Herrera got to work! He combined three parts white tequila, two parts Cointreau, and one part lemon juice, and she loved it. He dubbed it Margarita, the Spanish form of Marjorie, in her honor.

Margaret Sames’ Margarita

Another American socialite, Margaret Sames, claims an equally popular origin story. She was famous amongst her friends for her parties and wanted to come up with a new, refreshing, poolside drink. She created several recipes for this new drink while entertaining at the party, all of which ended up horribly (I personally believe it’s ill-advised to perform mixology while drunk, great ideas presented fantastically while intoxicated don’t tend to taste so great) until finally she landed on this: equal parts tequila and Cointreau, lime juice to taste, and a trace of salt on the rim. Now, I know what you’re thinking, but all truly great cocktails are simple in retrospect. During the party, and many parties thereafter, her guests would refer to this concoction as “the drink,” which eventually evolved into “the Margarita.”

Doña Bertha’s Margarita

So far we’ve covered two quite classic-sounding recipes for the Margarita, you’ve got your Cointreau, your salt rim, your lime, now let’s shake it up a bit!

Very little is known about this next recipe, but you’ll be glad I’ve included it. There is a bar in Taxco, Mexico, called Bar Berta, which was owned by a woman known as Doña Bertha. It is said that her recipe using silver tequila is a precursor to today’s Margarita, but once you give it a shot, you may never turn back to a regular Margarita again. In homage to the city’s famous silver mines, Doña Bertha created a drink to showcase silver tequila. She added honey for sweetness, lime for tartness, and an egg white for creaminess, shook it up and served it plain. No salt, no rocks, no garnish, she let the drink speak for itself.

Emily Morales Herself

Here’s a Margarita tip: at your backyard parties this Spring, try using agave instead of regular simple syrup!

Meyer's Olde Dutch (MOD) Opens After Planned Renovation - Patio! - New Order-From-Table App!

Meyers Olde Dutch Owner/Chef Brian Arfnoff, standing in front of his newly renovated restaurant. Photo Credit: Katie Hellmuth Martin

Meyers Olde Dutch Owner/Chef Brian Arfnoff, standing in front of his newly renovated restaurant.
Photo Credit: Katie Hellmuth Martin

Meyers Olde Dutch, your favorite burger shop for beef and vegan burgers, has been seemingly closed during much of the pandemic (spoiler alert: it was open the whole time). Some saw the boarded up windows and assumed the worst - fire. Others saw the boards and assumed the whole place was closed. Not so! Die-hard fans read the sign out front and knew that MOD set up shop at their sister restaurant down the street, Kitchen Sink, never skipping a beat flipping those burgers and dirtying those fries.

Was the renovation planned? Was the pandemic the perfect time to break ground? Yes and yes, as we discovered in our interview with Owner/Chef Brian Arnoff, who bought the little building in 2017 from the prior burger joint owner, Paul Yeaple of Poppy’s.

As did all restaurants in Beacon and the nation, Brian worked hard to figure out new ways to keep serving customers using an order-by-table app so customers can dial in their food/drink order straight to the kitchen/bar, keep his staff employed, keep live music every now and then, and keep the air healthy for when the doors could open again to the public.

We love hearing stories from the people themselves, so read how Brian tells it below:

ALBB: After you bought the building in 2017, had you always considered renovating it?

The new HVAC unit to improve air quality when the doors and windows are closed, lifted in before the big opening. Photo Credit: Meyers Olde Dutch

The new HVAC unit to improve air quality when the doors and windows are closed, lifted in before the big opening.
Photo Credit: Meyers Olde Dutch

Yes. There were a number of issues with the building that always needed to be addressed, like a leaky roof and very outdated/undersized HVAC system among other problems.

ALBB: Did the pandemic shutdown push you over the edge to take the time to dig into the renovation?

“Basically yes. We had been working on the plans, which went though several iterations for a while. As you know, going through the Planning Board process takes time especially when you’re in the Historic District and need variances. After the initial shock of COVID-19 passed, it started to become clear this was basically an ideal time to try and complete this renovation.”

The new covered patio and fan at Meyers Olde Dutch, a COVID-friendly improvement made during the pandemic. Photo Credit: Katie Hellmuth Martin

The new covered patio and fan at Meyers Olde Dutch, a COVID-friendly improvement made during the pandemic.
Photo Credit: Katie Hellmuth Martin

ALBB: What improvements did you make to make it COVID-friendlier?

“We updated our HVAC system with Merv-13 filtration. The system turns the air over more often and filters significantly more of the particles COVID-19 is known to float on. Additionally, we added some windows that can be opened for more fresh air, and covered our patio to give guests the option to sit outside all the time.”

ALBB: Were you able to retain some of your staff team?

“I’m very lucky to say yes! We have many staff who have been with Meyer’s Olde Dutch for a long time, including our kitchen manager Adam and bar manager Jesse, both of whom started at Kitchen Sink before MOD even existed, as well as Emily our lead bartender who has been with us at MOD since basically the first month we were open back in 2017, among many other staff.”

ALBB: What did you grow appreciative of during the pandemic shutdown?

“My time. I started working for myself in November of 2010 when I opened a food truck in DC and haven’t had a lot of down time since. The pandemic definitely gave me a different perspective on that and how I want to ‘protect’ my time and use it wisely.”

ALBB: Did any new offering emerge from the pandemic shutdown when you were in survival mode?

“Delivery for one. But also an increased focus on making new specials at MOD because we wanted to keep the menu fresh for our local customers who were so supportive during COVID.”

ALBB: What has been a huge struggle during the shutdown?

“Obviously there were many struggles, and those changed over time, but the energy at times enforcing masking last summer was really tough. No hospitality-minded person wants to constantly tell their customers to do things, and then occasionally have to fight with them about it. That was hard on our staff.”

ALBB: We are hearing from other restaurants that there have been struggles with 3rd party apps and delivery. What do you want people know about delivery? As convenient as it is, there are a lot of people involved from the ordering of the food, to the delivery, and the problems are aren’t always coming from the restaurant. What struggles have you faced there?

“So many things! Every restaurant has a different story and perspective on this, as we all used and did different things. Overall, I would just say, if you can avoid ordering through a third party app and instead order direct through the restaurant’s website, that is the most helpful/supportive thing the general public can do. Also, get vaccinated and just go sit at restaurants because more than anything, hospitality people want to have your real life presence back in the restaurant.”

ALBB: There was recently a report on Marketplace that one of the ways restaurants streamlined to survive was to introduce ordering-by-table, where a unique QR code is placed on the table, and a person can scan it with their camera app, and the menu pops up - for their table only. The customer can order a cocktail, beer or burger without telling a server, but the server brings it out and makes sure it’s OK. I see you have unique QR codes on your tables - how has this been going?

“Good! It cuts down on the wait time for the customer a lot. I was bar-tending the other night, and people who were outside were able to order drinks without me having to leave the bar to check on them. People are basically opening tabs for themselves. If they are in a group at one table, each person can open their own tab, and pay down when they are done.”

ALBB: Genius! This solves the problem of splitting the check 10 different ways!

“Yes (Brian laughs sheepishly). It’s all so new, we as staff aren’t used to guiding people to use it. But it is going well!”

Photos of the New MOD:

Editorial Note: Meyers Olde Dutch is an advertising client of ALBB, and a branding client of Katie James Inc. This article was produced independently of that partnership.

Beacon Restaurant Owners Respond To 10pm Alcohol Curfew: The Grill Is Hot

As coronavirus cases surge across the country, with states like North Dakota declaring that their hospitals are 100% at capacity and they don’t have enough nurses who are not infected, while Ohio warns that their hospitals may soon be over-capacity, and every day the United States out-does itself with the next highest record, Governor Cuomo nipped it by nixing late night drinking after 10pm at bars and restaurants. They can continue to cook for to-go orders, but in-person service will stop. Gatherings at home are limited to 10 people, and gyms must also close at 10pm.

At first blush, this seems to target canoodling. As one 8 year old observed: “Everybody knows that COVID cases are coming from people kissing at bars.” The truth may be that infections are spreading at home as people get lax in their social circles. With Thanksgiving coming up, Governor Cuomo just decided for you on if you were merging with another family, depending on the size of yours. Which may be good, as family table talk could get fiery with the election still in the rear view mirror.

For some restaurants in Beacon, the surge in take-out, delivery, parklets (seating in the street) and new safety measures have helped keep their businesses alive. We checked with business owners in Beacon to see how this curfew will impact them, interviews with some are below.

The eateries most impacted will most likely be Hudson Valley Food Hall, with the limitation of the Roosevelt Bar, Barb’s Fry Works, who just opened a stall inside HV Food Hall to cater to the late night drinking crowd, and The Beacon Hotel, who is known for their late night lounge service.

Max’s On Main, one of the original a late-nighters in the game, pivoted already to focus on food and take-out. The Eat Church Food Truck used to be hunkered down at Industrial Arts Brewing on Rte. 52, but long ago pulled up the pins and was serving from Marbled Meat Shop in Cold Spring, and will bounce to Kingston next. Sadly, Joe’s Irish Pub, announced their permanent closure and retirement in early November 2020.

We interviewed several owners below, and heard from others as well.

Some Restaurants Already Started Closing At Or By 10pm

MEYERS OLD DUTCH
Meyers Old Dutch (MOD) owner and chef Brian Arnoff used to have a weekend late night crowd, but stopped when he re-opened during the pandemic. “Since COVID started, we’ve been closing by 10pm anyways. We used to stay open until midnight on Friday and Saturday nights. Thankfully, this shouldn’t impact us. At least for now anyways.”

chill wine bar storefront raining.jpg

CHILL WINE BAR
Jim Svetz, owner of Chill Wine Bar, is also able to proceed, saying: “Thankfully this won’t impact us that much, since we reopened with already limited hours Friday and Saturdays, from 5pm-10pm. So no change here. I think most places with limited indoor seating will have a difficult time this winter. But we will get through this together.”

HOMESPUN
New owner of Homespun, Joe Robitaille, who is a wine expert (aka sommelier), has increased the amount of wine bottles and specialty beer they sell from the store, which “has helped us so much,” he told us when mulling over Thanksgiving and catering options. Look for a possible fire-pit and heaters in the back garden, but that is not confirmed yet.

bank square coffee house storefront.jpg

BANK SQUARE COFFEE HOUSE
Bank Square Coffee House is a coffee house that caters to a beer crowd for day-drinking and lightly into the evening. Says their manager: “I do believe it might impact our weekend crowd. Now with winter coming along, we depend a lot on our weekday regulars and our occasional busy weekends. Now with not many people being able to stay out late, I think we might see a little less of a weekend crowd. Fortunately, we close at 8pm even on weekends, so we won’t get too impacted.”

Late Night Bars With Food Who Pivoted With The First Re-Opening

QUINN’S
Quinn’s was one of the last restaurants in Beacon to re-open, waiting until summer. For this latest restriction, Quinn’s manager, Stamper, was feeling prepared: “After our hiatus between May and August, we re-opened understanding that we would not be a late night place again for a long while. With this in mind, we shifted our hours to incorporate lunch and closing at 9pm. With the removal of Main Street parklets, losing our outdoor dining, we’ve recently opened up indoor at an exclusive capacity, and with new hours: 5pm-11pm. This change was so fresh, that most customers still assume our kitchen is only open until 9pm, and so orders taper off around then. Ultimately, we’re losing an hour, but the bulk of our business is kept between the 5pm-9pm hours, and I’m certain as word spreads, folks will hang at Quinn’s until 10pm. Thank you!”

MAX’S ON MAIN
Max’s on Main is where you go where everybody knows your name, at practically any time of the day. You need a Blondie dessert at 11pm after having a great dinner at Dogwood? You go to Max’s. However, after the re-opening, they too shifted their late night bar scene to be heavy in food. We caught up with Jesse Kaplan, son of co-owner Richie Kaplan, and bar tenders Stephanie and Mary.

Said Jesse: “We were one of the business that served food the latest. Our customers know that we are available here later than some other places, and they have been very supportive of that. We are going to take a hit for that. But, we care about everybody being safe. If this is what we have to do to help the community be safe, then we are all in favor. I would never want to put the community at risk. We have been very careful here about everything. Face masks. Sanitation. Temperature. If we have to close at 10pm, that’s what we’re going to do.”

Will alcohol sales hurt Max’s? Jesse explains: “Our identity changed a little bit as a result of the pandemic. We made the decision to operate the business more as a restaurant once the pandemic hit, with an understanding that we would lose those alcohol sales, but our customers and our staff would feel more safe.”

Delivery is now available at Max’s. Right now, the crew is driving. “We all have been pitching in. Richie takes a delivery. I have been known to take a delivery or two. Stephanie (a bartender and former reporter and student in cyber crime) will take one one the way home at the end of her shift. The staff has really stepped up to pitch in.”

Stephanie chimed in to say that right away after the pandemic started, the community was very supportive and ordered a lot of food. Jesse recalls phone-in orders, where people will say: “Hi, I’m calling in an order, and I ordered from Brother’s earlier, and the Diner yesterday. I want to do my part to support restaurants in town. We are very thankful for that.”

True Late Night Bars Are Digging In

HUDSON VALLEY FOOD HALL VIA THE ROOSEVELT BAR
Owner of the Hudson Valley Food Hall (HV Food Hall), Marko Guzijan was cruising right along with the bar business at the Roosevelt Bar until 1am, which was doing so well that Barb’s Butchery, who enjoys popping up on Main Street at the Farmer’s Market from time to time from her home base of Spring Street, had just opened a stall inside the food hall called Barb’s Fry Works, which catered to the hungry late night crowd. HV Food Hall is very spacious inside, with tall ceilings, and has a generous patio on their corner lot.

Said Marko, who was looking forward focusing on his 40th birthday: “The late night crowd has been very good for us. Barb’s Fry Works just opened, and her business model is based on staying open with the bar. So it’s a big hit. Everyone in the Food and Beverage business wants to do the right thing. If shutting down helps end the pandemic, then let’s do it. But it feels like the Governor just keeps punching down and hurting Food and Beverage businesses.

“We try to follow the rules. We implement new business models, and then the Governor changes it all up and offers us nothing in return. We have to help out with overhead and bills. Central Hudson still charges the same rate, Optimum charges the same rate, our insurance is based on the size of the business, but our business is cut by over half. I think all small businesses will do what is best for the greater good, but it feels like we are the ones taking the larger hit on our business.”

What new things has HV Food Hall done to accommodate the pandemic? Marko describes: “The food hall bar business model for us is fast/casual and self-service. With the new restrictions, we have had to hire more staff (2 hosts, 2 servers, a barback, and 2 busboys). Now we need to figure out if we need that staff anymore. I really don’t want to lay people off in a pandemic, but might not have a choice.

“We have limited our seating because of the 6 feet rule, which has forced us to turn people away at times. Because of the food rule, the bar will buy food for patrons instead of forcing them to spend more money on something they don’t want. We have 25+ staff in the whole food hall, and have not had a single positive test. When someone doesn’t feel well, they stay home and close the stall. We then pay for a commercial cleaning company to come in and deep clean everything, at a cost of almost $1,000. Five guys in hazmat suits spend 4-5 hours going over every inch of the food hall. We do these things and we’ve never had a staff member test positive.

“As the rules keep changing, we start running our business in fear. At any point, the Governor can send people in and take away the liquor license. I would love to have live music for Saturday and Sunday brunch, but can’t get clarification on if it is allowed or not. So I don’t let it happen, even though a few of the chefs have pushed for it.”

THE BEACON HOTEL
The Beacon Hotel was fully renovated a few years ago by a different ownership team. Jon Lombardi started as the general manager there, and is now co-owner. Under his management, The Beacon Hotel has become an eatery for all times: brunch, lunch, dinner, and operates as a lounge in the evening. Jon was walking past his restaurant when we caught up with him. When asked about the change, he didn’t flinch. “We’re ready. I’ve got my flyer. I’ve got my to-go glasses.”

Jon is never one without ideas, and has inspired his pandemic survival package with a “Last Call: 10pm” theme. Patrons can order to-go shots with group discounts, different cocktails in cute mason jars, and perhaps the best part: if you bring back your mason jar for a refill the next day or days later, you get a discount. Food has always been available to go at The Beacon Hotel, and continues to be, which includes rotating specials and themes for whatever is going on.

There are other bar/restaurants in town, but we did not get their definitive plans in time for this article. Wishing everyone the best, and to keep on ordering.